Tiger Leaping Gorge
High up in the Tibetan Plateau, the Yangtze river finds its origins and begins the long trek through the mountains, eventually cutting clear across the country. In Chinese, its name is “Jin Sha” or Golden Sand, and it is one of the major rivers in China. In 1966, Chairman Mao swam through its muddy waters in Wuhan. But it is here, at Tiger Leaping Gorge that the Yangtze is at its most magnificient. Legend has it that it’s name derrived from a tiger which, you guessed it, leaped across the gorge in one bound.
If I had known what sheer beauty awaited us as we left Lijiang this morning, I’m sure I would have kicked everyone out of bed several hours earlier, instead of wandering Old Town with Kalash, my D80 Nikon. The hostels in China have so far, been a wonderful experience. But being a relatively light sleeper and one of the dorm-mates leaving at 6AM, I was pretty much up at the break of dawn. At this point, I shall conveniently leave out the part where I get lost amidst the alleys and canals, and only find my way back when one of the dogs at our hostel “finds” me, and like an episode of Lassie, leads me back home.
I’m convinced that by the time I leave China, I will have morphed into an incredible negotiator. Or at least, adept at bargaining. Take for example our departure from Lijiang. Standing in front of the bus station, we bartered with the black cabs, bartered with fellow travellers wanting to tag along, and then bartered with each other for the window seat. The last one, I’ve had plenty of experience.. thanks to an awesome brother.
but the point is, nothing gets done with out talky-talk here, and plenty of threatening to walk away.
I currently find myself typing away at Jane’s Guesthouse, after a full day’s hiking, which was really more of climbing than hiking. I wish I somehow had the means of expression that would automatically transport you guys here. To hear the roar of the mighty river, and pounding which you feel through your feet as you get closer to the banks of the river. The Chinglish signs you’ll encounter – evidence of Chinese entrepreneurial ingenuity even in the most remote areas of this amazing country. But most of all, the wonder you feel when you’re dwarfed by opposite rock faces so huge like Atlas, they seem to hold up the sky.
The great bend of the Yangtze, which begins in Tiger Leaping Gorge is a formidable 7 day rafting trip. I was hoping to get the chance to raft at least part of it tomorrow, but it’s looking like this adventure will have to wait. Tomorrow, Shangri-la beckonds.
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