A quick entry tonight. I am thoroughly exhausted and half asleep :)

The Chans are reunited! My wonderful brother met up with Melissa and I in Xi’an on Sunday night, along with two of our friends from Hong Kong. Our dynamic duo is now a rabble of travelers. We are at a funky hostel in Xi’an called the Han Tang Inn. And naturally, terracotta warriors greet us at every corner.

Something all hostels should have: kittens. While settling in and waiting for the guys to arrive, three tiny kittens wandered into our dorm. I am immediately obsessed. My first night is somewhat sleepless, due to the constant purring from a tiny white kitten who has decided to curl up next to me in bed. It’s like sleeping next to a tiny furry engine.

Xi’an is one of the ancient capitals of China. Most famous now for the terracotta warriors uncovered in the 70′s. It is also the one place I promised I wouldn’t go without my brother, who is a big history buff. Oh man.. it did not disappoint. My jaw hit the floor as we walked inside a live archaeological dig the size of an aircraft hanger, with hundreds of soldiers standing in battle-ready formation. Perhaps the only thing I enjoyed more than the actual warriors was my brother’s constant stream of commentary and obvious excitement :)

This morning we headed towards Hua Shan, one of Taoism’s holiest mountains. Having been in the Himalayas and the famed Yangshuo carsts, I wondered how much I would be impressed by Hua Shan. In truth, the Lonely Planet doesn’t do it justice. The five peaks are all around 2000m each, and the hike up is more often climbing up a vertical stone ladder while gripping a metal chain. It was a grueling afternoon, and it didn’t help that our 2 hour ride back to the city was spent on flimsy plastic stools in between the aisle of the bus. Oof. Think of it as the post-hike anti-stretch.

Tomorrow evening we head back to Beijing. It’s hard to believe that my trip is more or less over. It feels like yesterday I was just touching down in Lhasa with my entire summer stretching before me. We’ll still be touring around Beijing, but I’m simultaneously wrapping up my apartment and this time next week… I’ll be back in Hong Kong preparing for the next chapter. Eep.

Naturally this means I have a ton of images to work through.. a photographer’s trip is never over :) Ok. I am totally beat. Time for sleep.. zzzzz..

They say that gourmet cuisine is in China, but the flavor is in Sichuan. This western province boasts pandas, the most beautiful Chinese girls (literally referred to as “la mei zi” or spicy girls) as well as some of the most jaw dropping scenery. In the northern part of the province, every other turn of the winding road is like a picture from a fairytale. Iridescent lakes and virgin forests abound in Jiuzhaigou, China’s famed national park and a Unesco World Heritage site.

It’s been about a week since I met up with Melissa. We spent our time in Sichuan visiting (and holding) pandas, stuffing ourselves silly with local Sichuan cuisine, and touring around the local sites like Le Shan Buddha, carved out of the side of a mountain and the largest seated Buddha in the world.

Jiuzhaigou deserves an entry on it’s own. It’s a harrowing twelve hour bus ride from Chengdu, winding through mountains and bumpy roads, with unexpected traffic jams thanks to avalanches and reconstruction after the Sichuan earthquake. Our driver probably deserves a medal for either getting us there in record time or making a third of his passengers throw up. But once you are in the mountains, it is worth every bump and jostle along the way. Despite being Canadian (and darn proud of our national parks) I have never seen anything so beautiful and pristine. Hard to imagine that it is all part of the same country that is so heavily polluted and developing at a breakneck pace.

Undoubtedly the best part were the friends we made along the way. Nothing beats bonding over yak skewers and dubious dishes imbibed with yak butter. We traveled with a group of hilarious Canadians guys and a lovely French girl. Melissa and I actually waved little while hankies as they pulled off for their next stop. They will be sorely missed, but I have the most wonderful memories of us horseback riding through Tibetan mountain villages, playing with a new born lamb (I have never seen Melissa’s mothering instinct kick in until now) and being blessed by Tibetan monks. Oh and meeting a living buddha. Because how many people in the world can say that??

Tonight finds me on the docks of Chongqing. After a minor scare aboard what appeared to be the steerage class of a cargo ship, we are finally aboard the right ship bound for the Yangtze river on a cruise for the famed Three Gorges. I wish I could show you a shot of our room right now with Stevie Wonder streaming in through the PA system. I was a bit concerned about the floods which hit the area about a week ago, however things as of today are back to normal. Praise God it has air con. They don’t call Chongqing one of China’s three furnaces for nuthin’.

Anchors away!

This is going to be one of those blog entries that I hope my mother never reads. It’s being written as a faithful account of my time in Tibet, but I’m not particularly proud of the events that happened. And before I go on, let me also say that I’m really not trying to dramatize the events or imply that I’m McGuyver.

That said, this entry is about how we got accidentally left behind on Mt. Everest, lost in the dark and how we found our way back to base camp. With a little photographic creativity.

setting off
I set off for base camp three days ago from Lhasa. Our little band of travelers consisted of random people from all over China who wanted to share a ride. Tibet is seriously politically sensitive territory. Foreigners and local Chinese don’t really mix as foreigners need special permits, a local guide and a set itinerary. Which means the only back packers you will be able to organize a shared ride with, are Chinese travelers.

This has been a bit of a new experience for me as an overseas born Chinese, and certainly eye-opening. However I must say, I’m really grateful to have had these new friends.

From Lhasa to Mt. Everest base camp is a two day drive, stopping over at Shigatse. I had struggled with headaches in Lhasa but thought I had acclimated by the time we arrived in Shigatse, which is 1000 km above Lhasa. The moment I stepped foot on Everest at 5000 km however, I could tell it wasn’t going to be easy.

base camp
Within an hour of our arrival, everyone else seemed to be doing fine. Except me. I was fighting back the urge to dry heave and a pounding headache. From base camp, most tourists will take transport to the next summit where there is a fantastic view of the top of Mt. Everest. Against what is probably my better judgment, I got on the bus. I don’t think I could have forgiven myself if I came all this way and passed up the chance to see it up close because of a stupid headache.

This side of the Himalayas is completely barren and icy. Nothing but the tiniest weeds grow, and the ground is cut with icy streams from the glaciers above. Nat Geo adventurers make it look so darn easy. I’m a pretty healthy and active girl, but I felt like I moved in slow motion up there and was panting for air after every few steps.

for the love of the game
There is something unique about photographers that sets us apart from other creative pursuits. For one, our craft straddles between technology and artistry. Another is that to be a photographer is to be infinitely curious about the world. We lug our cameras to the far corners of the earth and even though the trip is over, our journey is only half begun. We wake up at insane hours to catch the light and in short, go to great lengths to capture the perfect frame.

So naturally, it was a dozen of us photographers that got left behind on the summit, after the remaining transport had ferried back the very last frozen and weary tourist.

lost
By the time we realized there was no bus coming back for us, it was almost night fall. There was some debate in the group (“no way they would leave us here!”) before the consensus was that it probably wouldn’t be a very good idea to wait and find out.

We were likely only three to four hours’ hike away from base camp, and the feeling of imminent danger wasn’t particularly overwhelming. But how utterly unprepared we all were was rather frightening. We split into three groups (mostly based on hiking speed) and before long, we had lost the main road and were stumbling in the dark, following icy streams. We had totally lost the other groups, and despite China Mobile signs along the road up to base camp, there was definitely no reception.

Somewhere far ahead, we saw a tiny flash of light, followed by another. It took a few minutes before we realized it was the first group, using their on camera flashes and strobes to signal to us. Every 10-15 minutes or so, we’d see a few flashes, return the signal, and then flash the last group. In this way we were able to make sure we all stayed together and moved in the same general direction.

Pro/am photographers often complain that every other person now has a fancy SLR and flashy gear. In this particular instance.. I’ve never been quite so grateful.

A few hours later, we finally came to base camp, half frozen and looking like we’d all smeared blue ink on our lips. Inside the nomad tents we were staying at, the remainder of our group who had made it back earlier fussed around us offering a dozen different herbal remedies. I half heartedly gulped some down, force-fed myself a few spoonfuls of rice before falling into a restless, head-pounding slumber.

As I type this on the road back to Lhasa on my iPhone, there have already been more misadventures. But that will have to wait… Right now I’m just enjoying being at a normal elevation of 4000 km.

There are certain pros and cons about traveling alone in Tibet. Pro: you might hop on the back of a truck en route to a monastery, meet a bunch of Amdo pilgrims and get taken under their wing. Con: you might also wake up every morning to a pounding migraine, realizing your lips are tinged with blue from want of oxygen, and occasionally feeling frustrated and alone in a totally foreign place.

Some things make it worth all the trouble though. The people you will encounter while on the road, and the feeling of total freedom and empowerment. If I had to summarize this into a phrase, it’s a mindset of being open to possibilities.

Chinese travelers I have encountered often remark “niu” when they find out I’m here on my own. Niu literally means “cow” and translates as “cool” or “awesome”… (It’s a funny language sometimes) What I think is really “niu” are the people I’ve encountered along these last few days of travel. Like a retired Dutch couple who hiked across northern India together. Or a 19 year old girl from Beijing who hitched a ride to Lhasa. Or a PhD candidate and a former information officer for the Chinese government. Whoa.

Tomorrow I set off for a four day trip that will take me to the base camp of Mt. Everest. It’s 5000 M above sea level and nearly 2000 m higher than Lhasa… Which I confess, I’m a little concerned about since I am still showing slight symptoms of altitude adjustment. If all goes well, three days from now I’ll peek my head out of a yak hide tent and see the sunrise on the Himalayas.

I really, really hope I’m able to make it. :)

I’m traveling with a rabble of Chinese back packers, from all over the country. As the only native English speaker.. my mandarin is getting quite the work out. But in the short time we’ve gotten to know each other, it’s really remarkable to see how we’ve all bonded and take care of each other. How it all happened was a bit of kismet. I wandered into a hostel to use the bathroom and saw a notice to share a ride.. And the rest is history.

So here is a quick sign off from Lhasa, in hopes that my next entry won’t be one where I’m delirious and needing an IV. :)

Five years ago, I found myself standing in front of a door. Salsa music and the sound of sixty girls’ chatter and laughter floated from inside, and outside was me peeking in, trying to decide whether going through this whole stupid “sorority-thing” was worth the trouble. It had been a hard semester. I was struggling to adjust to life in New York City and struggling to put myself through school. Life felt like an avalanche of crises and me being the stubborn type, I was determined to weather the storm silently. Just when I had decided to turn tail and avoid walking into the awkwardness of all those eyes staring at the sole late comer, I heard someone call my name. I nearly died in embarrassment when I saw it was my friend Keith. I’d been caught red-handed, and braced myself for a torrent of teasing. It was only fair. After all, I mercilessly teased my friends who had “gone Greek.”

As it turns out, Keith is one awesome guy. He didn’t tease me too much, but he did shove me through the door. Literally. I found myself blinking, dazed among all those girls. And I had been the awkward tomboy all throughout high school. But sometimes what you dread the most, turns out to be a blessing in disguise. This post isn’t about the merits of greek life. But it is about friendship and sisterhood. Because that’s how I came to know Melissa. Who even on a bad day, is seven different shades of awesome.

There are some experiences that bond you together for life. I happen to consider breaking an international embargo one of those experiences.

Sophomore year, I had this hair brained idea to go to Cuba. “It’s easy. We’ll go via Bahamas and… figure out the rest when we get there.” I was a little floored when Melissa actually agreed to come. We spent a week backpacking around Havana, smuggled back contraband, and have been inseparable since. This girl gets me and my wacky sense of humor, can put up with my neuroses and is always up for an adventure. She’s pretty much a saint and Lara Croft rolled into one. If I were stuck on a desert island, I’d want a swiss army knife.. and Melissa. It’s a toss-up as to which would save our butts first.

Since that fated trip to Cuba, we’ve had more adventures.. both together and apart. Melissa decided to commit to serving with the Peace Corps after graduation and was stationed in Kyrgyzstan days before the revolution broke out. A little over a week ago, she was evacuated and is now back on US soil. I was stunned to receive her call, which was only two days after her return. And….. immediately launched into a speech on why she should fly out to China and spend a month backpacking with me.

She agreed.

…

.

I told you she was mind-bogglingly awesome.

Next Friday, she’s flying into Jetsonville before hopping onto another flight to the mainland, where we rendezvous after I get off a train from Lhasa. I can not even begin to tell you how insanely excited I am that she is coming.

Mel, you are a sister and friend in so many more ways than I can count. We’ve seen each other through thick and thin, and as I like to say – we are like iron sharpening iron. I would not want to be one of those-annoying-girls-who-are-married-to-each-other-on-facebook with anyone else. I can not WAIT to see you!! Epic Trip 2010 is going to be a blast. I’m so thrilled you are coming!!! :D